Why is fast fashion really messed up?
The rise and fall of fast fashion and why it matters.
Recently, news broke out that the low priced, fast fashion retailer Forever 21 is filing for bankruptcy protection. The popular store founded in 1984 is shutting down stores across the US and Canada. After decades of arming teenagers and adults with ripped jeans, skinny leggings and last minute party outfits, the store can no longer maintain a viable economic future. While in the recent past we have seen famous brands such as Toys ‘R Us, Gymboree and Payless Shoe Source go under, this is telling of not only a changing retail environment with the shift to online shopping, but of something more important. Especially with regards to garments.
$12 jeans? $13 dresses? Yes, please. Sounds like a steal!
But, think about it for a second. The costs of running a beautiful store, the wages to the cashiers, the journey the garment travelled, the cost to run the machines on the production line, wages to textile workers….the list goes on. How can we possibly buy something for $12 and assume a percentage of profit for the shop if we weigh in all these costs? Something has to be amiss.
Fast fashion brings runway looks to common people like you and me at a small fraction of the price. Of course, this comes with a huge burden to the environment and on the conditions for textile workers. The ease of consuming it with such low prices means most of it eventually ends up in a landfill.
The clothing and textile industry is the largest polluter in the world only second to oil.
So what are we doing about it?
On a Global Level
The United Nations (UN) has set out 17 Sustainable Development Goals (referred to as SDGs) outlining an urgent call to action to all countries on issues that are most pressing to the state of our planet today. Sustainable Development Goal 12 outlines sustainable consumption and production patters, which pertains to the topic at hand: consumption of fashion and textiles.
In the words of the UN, “Urgent action is needed to ensure that current material needs do not lead to the over extraction of resources or to the degradation of environmental resources, and should include policies that improve resource efficiency, reduce waste and mainstream sustainability practices across all sectors of the economy.”
Governments around the world are attempting to create laws and regulations to curb corporations that pollute but meaningful and measurable impacts are yet to be seen.
On a Company level
Businesses recognize that millennials are voting with their dollars. They are more environmentally conscious. They can see through poor quality, low prices and the impact of such business on workers in developing countries.
As displayed by the chart above, nearly 1 in 2 Americans make conscious decisions about how they purchase items. Companies such as H&M, one of the world’s largest clothing retailers, has created a foundation that is committed to finding sustainable solutions to transform the apparel industry. They understand the importance of winning consumer trust while retaining talent that believes in their product. Through using 3D technologies, hydrothermal recycling machines and artificial intelligence, the retailer plans to find more efficient ways to produce and recycle fabric, while simultaneously cutting down waste.
That being said, there is much more that has to be done. Production volumes keep growing and consumers expect competitive pricing. So a comprehensive solution is yet to be determined. This is where you could come in.
If you or a friend has an idea to reinvent fashion, I came across this initiative https://globalchangeaward.com/ by H&M’s foundation. Applications close October 16, 2019.
How YOU can help
This all boils down to every single one of as as consumers and the choices we can make that will make an impact, even if small, on the landfills that are overloaded with textile waste.
Here are a few tips to implement in your everyday lives to reduce your footprint on textile waste:
Keep an organized closet — As simple as this may sound, when our wardrobes are not organized we do not know what we own leading to excess consumption and shopping. This means we often make repeat purchases, buy what we don’t need and use shopping as an alternative to doing laundry.
Buy ethical — While this can be hard, buy higher quality apparel less often than frequently purchasing low quality apparel. This is definitely a more expensive option but it will also help with the clutter in your closet. Buy from stores that support ethical labour practices and honour high environmental standards. Do some homework.
Avoid blended fabrics — Fabrics such as nylon, polyester and viscose are not biodegradable and are unsustainable. Opting for organic cottons, wool or other natural fabrics is an eco-friendly option and also better for skin sensitivities.
Donate — According to the Recycling Council of Ontario, the average person throws away 37 kilograms of textiles annually. Ninety-five percent of what ends up in landfills could have been recycled or reused. Find a local charity you could donate clothes to or make rags out of old clothes to do the cleaning around the house.